rad1o

User Tools

Site Tools

Trace: • case • what • projects • faq
leds

Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

Link to this comparison view

Both sides previous revisionPrevious revision
Next revision		Previous revision
leds [2015/08/14 06:45] – [How to properly solder the LED's] janhenrikleds [2015/12/20 22:10] (current) – schneider
Line 11: Line 11:
 These are RGB LEDs with their own microcontroller, so all LEDs can be programmed individually. They are daisy chained, first the two in the lower area of the PCB and then six on the antenna on the top. So if you don't want to add all LEDs, or want to start with only one first, you have to follow the order "//middle left, middle right, antenna from right to left//" or bridge the data pins of the unused LED pads.  These are RGB LEDs with their own microcontroller, so all LEDs can be programmed individually. They are daisy chained, first the two in the lower area of the PCB and then six on the antenna on the top. So if you don't want to add all LEDs, or want to start with only one first, you have to follow the order "//middle left, middle right, antenna from right to left//" or bridge the data pins of the unused LED pads. 
  
-:!: **Important note** :!: Due to a fn0rd in the layout the transistors intended to control power of the LEDs can't be used as intended. The transistor pads have not been populated. You either have to+:!: **Important note** :!: Due to a fn0rd in the layout the transistors intended to control power of the LEDs can't be used as intended. The transistor pads have not been populated. There are several ways of getting the LEDs to work:
  
-  - build some complex SMD sculpture using wires or +  - build some complex SMD sculpture using wires (more about this at the bottom of the page) 
-  - simply bridge 3 of these pads. But then your badge will always be powered, even if turned off, so either: +  - build a working high-side switch [[starblue led power|using two MOSFETs]] to get the functionality that was originally intended (or optionally to switch LED power with a GPIO port) 
-    - try to use a jumper or +  - try to use a jumper/switch to bridge two of the transistor pads 
-    - try to use a switch to bridge the transistor pads (with some wires one switch can be used for all three) or +  - bridge two of the transistor pads with solder
-    - always disconnect the battery to turn the badge off.+
  
-Example with all possible LEDs and bridges (for power supply) soldered (LEDs green, bridges red): +The last option has the disadvantage that the blue LED will be a bit dimmer but it is the easiest option and the LEDs are quite bright already.
-{{ :led3.png?100 |}}+
  
-Example with only two LEDs at the antenna, then the bridges at the lower part of the board aren't needed but you need to add bridges for transporting the signal (ignore the yellow arrows): https://twitter.com/michaelossmann/status/629779084801781760+There are spaces for capacitors which are recommended, but the LEDs usually work fine without.
  
-Sorry for that, but wouldn't it be boring otherwise? :-P+== Which way around do the LEDs go?
  
-== How to properly solder the LED's+If you have a close look at an LED, you'll notice one corner is marked by having a bit cut off. 
 +In the photo below, the pads where this corner needs to be are marked in red:
  
-To solder the LED's properly you have to do a few things. There are mainly two things you have to care of, the wiring and the capacitors. +{{::leds.png?600|}}
-So we will add some thin wires, capacitors and of course the LED's to the rad1o.+
  
-__Why?__+== How to supply the LEDs with power
  
-Wires: If you solder bridges onto the transistor pads ( like explained earlier ), the processor will be always on draining some power. With the wires not.+**Do not bridge all three pads of each transistor as this will create a short!** 
  
-Capacitors: The WS2812B LED's are very vulnerable to not having a 100nF capacitor soldered next to their power pins, the internal controller pulses the LED's ( PWM ), so the current conversion is also very pulsed. That will cause voltage spikes on the ground ( Yes ground ) line, which will destroy the controller/the LED.+Example with all possible LEDs and correct bridges on two of the three transistor pins (for power supply) soldered (LEDs green, bridges red): 
 +{{ :led3.png?600 |}}
  
-LED's: Why you ask, LED's are fancy \o/  +Example with only two LEDs at the antenna, then the bridges at the lower part of the board aren't needed but you need to add bridges for transporting the signal (ignore the yellow arrows): https://twitter.com/michaelossmann/status/629779084801781760
- +
-__What you will need:__ +
- +
-  * Thin isolated wire ( 0.2 mm enamelled copper wire [ Kupferlackdraht ] works fine ) +
-  * 8 100nF SMD capacitors +
-  * 8 WS2812B LED's +
-  * Soldering iron, solder, tweezers, Mate, etc +
- +
-__Step 1__  +
- +
-Add the thin wire to the solder pads like in the picture below. +
- +
-{{:img_20150814_075501.jpg|}} +
-{{:img_20150814_075511.jpg|}} +
-{{:img_20150814_075519.jpg|}} +
- +
- +
-__Step 2__ +
- +
-Add the LED's. +
- +
-( scroll down for an explaining picture ) +
- +
-__Step 3__ +
- +
-Now you should add the capacitors, that is kind of hard to do, because three capacitors don't have solder pads. +
- +
-{{:img_20150814_075501_01.jpg|}} +
- +
-You can see the new capacitors next to the upper left LED pins. +
- +
-{{:img_20150814_075401.jpg|}} +
-{{:img_20150814_075430.jpg|}} +
-{{:img_20150814_075422.jpg|}} +
- +
-I hope that the pictures are clear enough, the has to be a 100nF capacitor next to the power pins of every LED. +
- +
-__Step 4__ +
- +
-Test it. +
- +
-{{:bagde_bright.jpg|:400}} +
-{{:bagde_dark.jpg|:400}} +
- +
-Yay \o/ +
- +
-(Now successful running for 1 1/2 days) +
- +
- +
-== Which way around do the LEDs go? +
- +
-If you have a close look at an LED, you'll notice one corner is marked by having a bit cut off. +
-In the photo below, the pads where this corner needs to be are marked in red: +
- +
-{{::leds.png?200|}}+
  
 +Sorry for that, but wouldn't it be boring otherwise? :-P
  
 == I soldered one LED but it doesn't work? == I soldered one LED but it doesn't work?
 All LEDs are on the same data line, if they are not all soldered on, the data line is interrupted. You can either solder on all LEDs or bridge the data line. The image below shows where the data line goes, red lines are on the PCB, green lines are usually closed by LEDs. If you are not filling all LED spots, you have to fill the missing connections with wire. All LEDs are on the same data line, if they are not all soldered on, the data line is interrupted. You can either solder on all LEDs or bridge the data line. The image below shows where the data line goes, red lines are on the PCB, green lines are usually closed by LEDs. If you are not filling all LED spots, you have to fill the missing connections with wire.
  
-{{::leds-data.png?200|}}+{{::leds-data.png?600|}}
  
 == Will the LEDs do something as soon as I switch the rad1o on? == Will the LEDs do something as soon as I switch the rad1o on?
Line 108: Line 53:
  
 The 2 lower LEDs should be yellow, the one at the tip of the antenna should be green and the other 5 LEDs on the antenna blue. The 2 lower LEDs should be yellow, the one at the tip of the antenna should be green and the other 5 LEDs on the antenna blue.
 +
 +===== The Hard Way =====
 +Have a look at [[leds-the-hard-way|How to properly solder the LED's]] to see how to get a bit more brightness out of your LEDs.
leds.1439534700.txt.gz · Last modified: by janhenrik